
Recipe Source: Based on research published by Tadeusz Lewicki in West African Food in the Middle Ages, Cambridge University Press, 1974/2008. Assistance was also found online here.
I don't know about anyone else's experience, but we didn't learn much about Africa in school. I'm talking about Africa south of the Sahara here, not North Africa. We knew it existed, of course, but we just didn't learn much about it. Maybe things have changed a bit since then, but really my experience was this:
1) Humanity begins.
2) Stuff no one knows about.
3) Colonialism and the slave trade.
That's it. It was never explicitly stated, but the impression I got from my youthful textbooks was that whatever was going on between earliest humanity and the slave trade did not involve literacy. And it was easy to accept that premise, because I really had very little incentive to change that idea. I had very little connection to that part of the world, and it was easier and more fun to research other places. I was curious about that whole second line item on the list, but not a whole lot of ideas on how to satisfy that curiosity. I knew there had to be something out there. Stories about slave rebellions in early colonial America suggested different ethnic groups had different effects on various uprisings, so someone knew something. Being me, of course, the most important thing to me was the food. What were my friends' ancestors eating in Africa when my own ancestors were apparently subsisting on turnips and bread?
Then I found this book while browsing at a gathering of medieval enthusiasts. It's not an easy read. The font frankly makes my eyes glaze over, which seems like an incredibly trivial distraction but really, it has the feel of reading something my kindergarten teacher mimeographed back before the dawn of time. Some of the language used is also a little... dated... in places, which I will choose to assume is the result of translation issues. Once I was able to force my eyes to stay on the page, though, I found the answer for which I'd been at least idly searching for years. I knew Ibn Battuta had been to parts of Africa, but I hadn't realized just how many travelers from the Arab world made their way to West Africa. Not only did they go there, but they wrote about what they found. And five hundred years later, give or take, this Polish scholar sat down and compiled what these travelers had to say about the food they found there. (More and more information is coming out, to include a trove of documents recently found in Mali. I'm unfamiliar with them - I'm just starting to research this part of the world. If you have more information and can point me in the right direction I'd love to know about it.)
It isn't the same as a cookbook, not by a long shot. At no point, as near as I can tell, does someone say, "Take some of this, and some of that, and a bit of this thing over here, mix it all together, heat it up and you have food. And you should serve it with that thing over there." It is however a stating point. A couple of weeks ago, I decided I was going to stop putting off experimenting with what I found in this book and actually do something with it. I was looking at the staple starches. The staple starch in our period, or at least the staple starch to which the most time is devoted in this volume, is sorghum. I did I quick Internet search for sorghum recipes, knowing nothing about the stuff, and found the above referenced recipe. From the looks of things in the book, the basic gist of how vegetables were served was in the form of a sauce, made with meat, served with the starch (pp. 57 - 8). I looked at the Internet recipe, which comes from roughly the right part of the world. In general, cattle were widespread in West Arica although it's impossible to say how often they were served as food. (Was beef a special-occasion food, or was it more commonplace?) Onion was well known. Hot chilies are a New World food and not appropriate for a medieval recipe. However, in an attempt to maintain a certain level of heat, I used pepper and ginger, both of which were in use in this part of the world. Okra, while not mentioned in the above book, is known to have been cultivated in West Africa - it came to the New World with the human cargo from that area - and we know that it was consumed as food as far back as Ancient Egypt. Plus, I really really love it. I wasn't able to get my hands on food grade shea butter or karite oil so I used olive oil.
I followed the Internet's instructions for the sorghum part of the meal pretty much exactly and I will tell you, I was unenthusiastic. It was a bowl of gray. I'm not criticizing the recipe and I'm not criticizing the use of sorghum; it was certainly used in period and that's fine. It was not to my taste. Can I point out that they make a sweetener from sorghum? That's probably got a lot to do with it. I tried to make it a little more palatable by treating it like polenta, but ultimately I just didn't care for it.
As for the beef and okra part - wow. That's all I can say. I loved this dish. How is it possible that we aren't eating this every day? I'm not just tooting my own horn here. Quite a few of my guests came up to me and said, "I hate okra but I love this dish." Make this dish - not because it can be vaguely traced back to an exotic culture several centuries ago, but because it tastes good. Very, very good. I'm serving it again this weekend at a medieval history enthusiasts' event, although I'll serve it over millet. I'm not going to include the instructions for the sorghum component, since they're perfectly explained in the original and I didn't enjoy them much. Serve over whatever works for you.
Medieval African Beef and Okra Stew (serves 8 - 12; approx. cost per serving not available)
1 pound okra, sliced
1 pound beef, thinly sliced
Water
Kosher salt to taste
1 onion, chopped
2 T ginger paste
2 T black pepper
2 T olive oil (depending on the cut of beef you get, you may want more or less)
Equipment:
- Large Dutch oven or similar pot
- Combine the beef with 300 ml water and bring to a boil. Add salt to taste - I'm trying to cut back for a variety of reasons, but use as much as you feel necessary.
- Skim the scum off the water. Boil until the water is pretty much evaporated. Yes, I know this seems counter-intuitive. Just do it.
- Add the oil and saute briefly.
- Add the remaining ingredients along with 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer.
- Stir frequently bug gently until the sauce is very thick. This is much faster than it sounds - okra's wacky like that.
- Serve hot over some kind of staple starch. Millet is appropriate.